Tales of Surfing #2

It has now been several weeks since my first post about learning to surf and my sad attempts at balancing on a board and popping up. But oh yes, now I can almost wear that “Surfer Girl” shirt proudly.

Today was one of those memorable days, another blessing from God in its simplicity. Amazingly, the sun was just beginning to peak through the clouds hovering about the calm waters of Newport, just as we hit the sand with surfboards under our arms. As the water touched our feet, we were shocked at its warmth. We stared at the ridiculously calm water, wondering how we were going to do much surfing on what more closely resembled a lake. But we headed in, with a wide open space out in front of us, for once not packed with other surfers. It slowly turned into, what in my opinion, was a perfect surf day. Frequent sets of waves, but small enough to actually attempt to catch and not just be pulled down underneath and sent tumbling along the shell-laden sand beneath us. (Although I had my share of those moments as well and many underwater somersaults). The warm sun had quickly broken free from the clouds and we were surrounded by carefully lapping waves, shiny waters reflecting the sun and a view of golden sand stretched out in front of us.

Early in our day, we were visited by dolphins close enough to see the tops of their bodies come out of the water from time to time as we sat on our surboards, feet dangling in the waters below as we waited for waves. They revisited our surfing community throughout the morning, provoking smiles and excited shouts from all of us in the water who were close enough to swim to them.

Of course, even better than this was the fact that a few hours in I actually caught waves! And not only stood on the board, but actually rode them in before falling. Our favorite was the wave that both Maceo and I caught and rode next to each other, my scream of delight totally out of place among the experienced, manly surfers out with us. I knew at some point it would click, just as popping up. Yes, “Big Red” as the well the long-board and I finally bonded, instead of it just hitting me repeatedly, dragging me under waves and attacking me with its leash as is the normal pattern of behavior. We climbed on top of the rolling waves together, being pushed in to the shore, where I would fall off backwards into the water when the wave stopped, just as I have watched so many surfers do.

I finally had momentum to keep going and keep practicing, keep paddling like crazy with my tired arms each time a wave would come. The sun was out full-force, Maceo and I both wishing we had just worn rash guards and board shorts, instead of the wetsuits that were now almost too warm to wear.

As we chatted and hung out on our boards in between waves, we watched the hundreds of tiny silver fish below us, that from time to time would jump out of the water in groups. Which also made for the freakiest part of my day. We always joke about the fish jumping out and how we could have some sushi if they jumped over our boards. Unfortunately this time they actually did jump over my board, as I laid down staring out at the water in front of me, a group of them dove over my board as I screamed and dove off my board, trying to avoid them, then climbed back on quickly hoping none would touch my feet. And of course there was the pelican that kept landing in the water in search of fish, so large that I kept thinking it was a surfer or part of some other creature.

I don’t think there is anyone who could convince me that this is not one of the best experiences in the world. To start the day early when few people are out yet, and to spend hours in the midst of God’s beautiful creation. The calm sounds of waves and moving water surrounding you as you lay on top of it, warmed by sun and the sights of unique homes, piers, jettys and Lifeguard towers; families and friends dotting the long spread of glimmering sand and people out enjoying nature and activity; the beauty and calm that God created even among one of the most powerful forces in nature; the ability to laugh and goof around and learn something new even among waters that on the right day or time could cause serious injury; and constantly surprised by creations of His hand like dolphins and fish and birds. A place which requires no money, no perfect outfit, no make-up, only one piece of equipment, allows for total freedom and expresses so much beauty.

I always knew I was a beach-girl at heart, and while some may not appreciate living in California, I thank God every Saturday that he allows me the pleasures of the beach and the ability to visit anytime I want!